Top. Bottom. Masks – Live for Walter Van Beirendonck @ Fashion Week Paris 2018

WORLDS OF SUN&MOON
AW 2018-2019

« Top. Bottom. Masks. A print entitled “gangbang” that looked to be pretty literal. Pig. As Walter Van Beirendonck confirmed after this show, this was a collection firmly focused on fetish, recreational sex, and the freedom that represents. The sun and the moon on the vaguely Dürer-esque embroideries on two beautiful overcoats, plus the fitted printed tops, were Van Beirendonck code for S&M. For those ignorant souls, including this one, who have only ever worn waders while fishing (I mean, what else would you ever do in them?), there were probably a lot of specialist references here lost in translation. Totally apparent, however, was what an awesome inspiration for forward-facing technicalwear with a PVC shine fetish most certainly is. Take away those nipple-exposing glory holes and you can see Van Beirendonck’s pig mask/hoods and box-shoulder cagoule/sleeping bag hybrids going, if not mainstream, very festival-relevant—sort of sexy pagan hazmat attire. Quilted pants unbuttonable from ankle to waist, body stockings printed with a codified rundown of Van Beirendonck’s source material, and the odd quaintly surprising piece of normwear—a suit!—were other diversions in a collection that was both eye-opening and ear stimulating, thanks to the mutedly nosebleed soundtrack delivered by Orphan Swords. » VOGUE